From Lisbon's custard tarts to spicy Sri Lankan dal: Irish chefs' favourite holiday food and recipes - The Irish Times

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Sri Lanka

Paul Flynn, chef/co-owner The Tannery restaurant

Paul Flynn and the team in the kitchen of Why House, a small colonial-style hotel near the historic coastal city of Galle

It has been 25 years since I’ve been to the Indian subcontinent. It wasn’t intentional to leave it so long but restaurant life has a habit of taking over. My last visit was a happy one, albeit somewhat marred by an epic gastrointestinal event that led to a hazardous scooter journey to the local pharmacy. Without going into any more detail, it was then that I knew my wife Máire would stick around for the long haul.

There was also the small matter of chronic hotel envy. We were staying in a two-star hotel tortuously close to a glitzy five-star Taj hotel. Ours was populated by frogs, dubious cooks and dodgy toilets. One look at them and my body went ... nah. I loved our trip, though – it left an abiding memory and a desire to go back that I was never sure would be fulfilled.

Then along came an unexpected invitation to cook a dinner at a food festival, Gourmet Galle, in Sri Lanka at the end of February. This was my opportunity. I stayed in the picture-perfect Why House, a small colonial-style hotel a short distance outside the historic city of Galle, on the southwest coast. I was spectacularly indulged by Henrietta, the flamboyant and very English owner who took me under her wing and guided me through the nuances of Sri Lankan cuisine.

Authentic Sri Lankan food is not for the timid eater – it has bolder flavours than Indian food. It is more intense yet, at the same time, somehow lighter. Fiery curries predominate, with abundant vegetables at their core. If you love coconut, as I do, you’ll be in heaven. Dinners were vivid multi-course affairs, served outdoors in a balmy palm enveloped diningroom. Main dishes were accompanied by a multitude of side dishes, from crunchy sour salads to hoppers, fiery sambals and even hotter gossip. Rotating table guests kept the conversation flowing as easily as the martinis.

I stayed six nights, on one of which I was due to cook dinner. I arrived on Tuesday, and on Friday it was my turn, so I had a couple of days to shop and prepare with the help of a very lovely kitchen team. I had a rough plan but the rest was to unfold as I shopped. Vegetables were bought from the old Dutch market that predated Ceylon. History permeated every mottled inch of the place. Generations of traders had sold mounds fruit and vegetables here that I had never laid eyes on before: purple yams, moong beans, rasvalli, lotus root, green-skinned narang, spotted dragonfruit.

Sanath, the hotel manager, drove me and acted as my guide, quietly ensuring I didn’t get taken advantage of. A nerve-jangling dash to the meat and fish market involved gingerly nudging among weaving tuk tuks, honking looming buses and oblivious stray dogs, until finally we got everything we needed. It was chaotically thrilling.

Henrietta wanted my crab creme brûlée – she had done her research on me. That dish will follow me into the grave. I worried about the cream and the crab but, as it turns out, there was no need. I babysat the oven until they wobbled like precious jellies, explaining as best I could the method to the curious kitchen team.

A seller at the Hikkaduwa fish market near Galle in southwest Sri Lanka

The chefs roasted local legs of black pork, wild and dark, that roamed around pineapple plantations. It was as delicious as it sounds; you would happily swap your child for the crackling. We made gravy with slow cooked onions laden with cinnamon, and finished with kithul, a treacle from the coconut palm. It is maple syrup’s smoky brooding brother. We roasted pineapples to comfort the pig and served salads anointed with a sharp clove dressing to lighten things up. It was a wonderful night made special by a team of amazing people.

I ate dal most mornings for breakfast. It seemed daring to me, but to the Sri Lankans it was as natural as having toast is to us. Here I have made it into a lunch or light dinner. The tomatoes are roasted with whole spices for crunch and a soft warm flatbread is served alongside for a little heft.

When I close my eyes I could almost be back there ... almost.

Coconut dal, tempered tomatoes and soft flatbread

Serves 4-6

Coconut dal, tempered tomatoes and soft flatbread, by The Tannery chef Paul Flynn. Photograph: Patrick Browne

• 350g red split lentils
• 2 green chillies
• 2 strips of lemon peel
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled and lightly crushed to open
• 1 shallot, peeled and halved
• 1 tsp turmeric
• 1 cinnamon stick, broken in half
• 400ml coconut milk
• 1 tsp salt
• 175g spinach, washed
• ½ tsp chilli powder

For the tomatoes

• 1 tbsp coconut or sunflower oil
• 1 tsp mustard seeds
• 1 tsp coriander seeds
• 250g whole baby plum tomatoes
• Salt and black pepper

Method

1. Soak the lentils in cold water while you get the rest of your ingredients together.
2. Drain the lentils and transfer to a large pan with 800mls of water, the whole green chillies, lemon peel, garlic, shallot, turmeric and cinnamon, then simmer on a low heat uncovered for 10 minutes.
3. Add the coconut milk to the pan and cook for 15 minutes or until the lentils are soft, then add the salt.
4. Fish out the chillies, lemon peel, garlic, cinnamon stick and shallot with tongs and discard them, then add the spinach and chilli powder to the lentils.
5. To temper the tomatoes, heat the oil till it is gently smoking then add the mustard and coriander seeds, quickly followed by the tomatoes. Warm through for a minute or two till the tomatoes start to soften, then add the salt and pepper. Serve with the dal.

Flatbreads

Makes 12 small

• 350g self raising flour, plus extra for dusting.
• 1 tsp baking powder
• 350g natural yoghurt
• A pinch of salt

Method

1. Add all the ingredients to a mixing bowl and mix together with a spoon, then pat and bring everything together.
2. Dust the work surface and tip out the dough. Knead for a minute or two to bring the mix together.
3. Place in a covered bowl and chill for a few minutes to make it easier to work with.
4. When ready to cook, divide the dough in half then divide each half into six equal-sized pieces. Flatten and roll into rounds 2-3cm thick.
5. Pour a little oil into a non stick pan over a high heat and cook the flatbreads on each side for a minute or two until puffed up and golden.

Lisbon

Mark Moriarty, chef, author and TV presenter

Mark Moriarty and his wife Grainne in Lisbon, 'one of the best food cities in the world'

Lisbon is one of my favourite places for a city break and one of the best food cities in the world. I could go on and on but the standout advantages include regular cheap flights at great times, affordable accommodation at a range of price points, culture and history, uber for getting around, great weather most of the year (not too hot for ginger-haired men like myself) and, of course, a huge amount of absolutely delicious food.

The thing I look forward to the most when we head over there are the pastéis de nata, or traditional Portuguese custard tarts. On my last few visits, I haven’t even waited to leave the airport as you can pick up some beauties in the arrivals hall.

The traditional recipe defies logic, cooking the egg custard in the raw pastry at a high temperature, with the result involving caramelised crisp pastry and soft set custard. Why doesn’t the egg scramble? The addition of flour and sugar syrup to the filling protects the egg yolks from the high temperatures.

Eating these is basically biting into sunshine and I can’t wait to get back.

Pastéis de nata

Makes 6 small tarts

Pastéis de nata, traditional Portuguese egg-custard tarts – basically biting into sunshine, in the estimation of Mark Moriarty

• 1 sheet ready made puff pastry
• 180g caster sugar
• 140ml water
• 2 lemon zest
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 500ml whole milk
• 20g butter, diced
• 35g plain flour
• 2 tsp cornflour
• 5 egg yolks

Method

1. To start, preheat your oven to 210 degrees.
2. Using a cutter, cut the puff pastry sheet into six circles that are slightly larger than your cupcake tray moulds (remember it has to reach up the sides as well).
3. Cut a wedge from each circle, removing about 20 per cent of the circle. Think Pacman shape here. Using your hands, line each mould in the tray with the pastry, the gap you cut away will allow you to fold it in neatly and have an even rim around the mould. Chill these in the fridge for later.
4. To start the filling, place the sugar, lemon zest, cinnamon and water in a heavy-based saucepan and cook over a high heat for about 10 minutes. The sugar should thicken into a syrup but not turn towards caramel – you’re looking for about 108 degrees. Once it reaches this, pour into a bowl and chill in the fridge.
5. Warm the milk in a heavy-based saucepan at this point. Whisk the flours together in a bowl. When the milk is warm, pour it on to the flours and whisk vigorously so no lumps form. Return the whole mix to the saucepan and cook out over a high heat until the mix turns to thickened cream, whisking all the time.
6. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter, egg yolks and cold syrup (minus the lemon and cinnamon stick). Hold a tiny bit of syrup back for glazing.
7. Remove the pastry lined tray from the fridge and fill each three-quarters full with the custard mix. Get them straight in the oven and bake for 20-22 minutes until the pastry turns golden, the mix souffles up and goes golden brown and the custard is set inside. Carefully remove from the moulds and allow to cool on a wire rack. Once the mix settles and drops, brush with the excess glaze and serve just warm.

Barbados

Danni Barry, executive head chef Ballynahinch Castle Hotel

Danni Barry, executive chef at Ballynahinch Castle in Connemara

During a recent trip to Barbados, I ate a lot of these delicious little bites. They are served as snacks in restaurants and people often eat them for breakfast too. They are made with salted cod, which you can buy here from Sustainable Seafood Ireland, but you could use smoked mackerel as an alternative. The smokiness would work well with the spice and you can skip the soaking process.

You can make them as spicy as you like and in this recipe I have replaced the traditional thyme with dill and parsley. The traditional hot sauce used in Barbados is a yellow hot sauce made with scotch bonnet chillies but you can use whichever hot sauce you like. I like to serve it with a simple lemon and lime/garlic mayonnaise but a Marie Rose sauce would also work well.

Bajan fish cakes

Danni Barry's Bajan fish cakes, 'delicious little bites' inspired by a recent trip to Barbados

• 225g flaked salted cod
• 1 shallot, chopped finely
• 3 garlic cloves, grated
• 25g chopped fresh parsley and dill
• 1 tsp ground black pepper
• 2 tbsp hot sauce, or to taste
• 25g unsalted butter, softened
• 150g all-purpose flour
• 2 tbsp baking powder
• 1 large egg, beaten
• 170ml whole milk
• 60ml water
• Vegetable oil, for frying

Method

1. Fill a medium-sized pot with water, bring to the boil. Add the salted cod and boil for five minutes. Drain the water, leaving the fish behind. Add fresh water and boil for another five minutes. Repeat this process about 5/6 times. This is to remove the excess salt. Taste it and if it is too salty, repeat.
2. Flake the fish in a bowl and add the shallot, garlic, parsley and dill, and mix well. Stir in the black pepper and hot sauce.
3. Stir in the butter and mix vigorously to make sure there are no chunks of butter. Add the flour, baking powder, egg, milk and water. Stir until you have a chunky batter.
4. Pour about one inch of vegetable oil into a large pot or skillet and heat over medium heat. Using a tablespoon, carefully spoon the batter into the pot to make each fish cake. Don’t let the fish cakes touch while frying, so work in batches if necessary.
5. Fry the first side of the fish cakes until golden brown, 5-6 minutes, then use a slotted spoon to carefully turn the fish cakes over and fry the other side until golden brown, another 5-6 minutes. Transfer the fish cakes to a paper-towel-lined plate.
6. For a sharp and citrusy garlic mayo, squeeze 2 lemons and 2 limes and reduce the juice by half, by simmering gently, until it becomes a little syrupy, and then mix with a good mayonnaise and some grated garlic.

Thailand

Adam Nevin, head chef, The Morrison Room, Fairmont Carton House

Adam Nevin of Carton House in Co Kildare with his barbecued free range pork chop and Jeow Som dressing. Photograph: Nick Bradshaw/The Irish Times

In January, I was lucky enough to get away to Thailand with my sister for a few weeks. It was actually my first time to visit a country outside Europe and the experience was definitely worth the 14-hour plane journey. I loved the southeast Asian cuisine – the flavours are so different from anything we have on this side of the world.

Each restaurant or street stall that I visited had tables with exotic and spicy condiments to choose from to add to what you have ordered, and that is where I discovered jeow som, otherwise known as crack dipping sauce because it is pretty much good with everything and so addictive. It is sweet and fiery and once you try it you’ll want to have it with every dish. Making it only takes about 20 minutes and it is perfect as a condiment for summer barbecues or to make your weeknight dinner more exciting. For this, I barbecued a pork chop and lathered it on top, but it really goes with just about any protein. You can play with it to suit your tastes.

Jeow Som ‘crack dipping sauce’

• 100ml fish sauce
• 50g sugar
• 50g chopped coriander
• 40g shallot
• 30g diced ginger
• 1 clove finely sliced garlic
• 2 red chillies, sliced

Method

1. Put your fish sauce and sugar in a pan and bring to the boil, making sure the sugar dissolves completely.
2. Remove from heat and mix in the rest of your ingredients.
3. If you don’t eat it all at once, it should last in the fridge for up to two weeks.

Amsterdam

Gráinne O’Keefe, chef/owner Mae restaurant

Gráinne O'Keefe, chef/ patron, Mae Restaurant – served with face-twisting mustard straight up, Dutch bitterballen are 'heaven on a little greasy plate'

Bitterballen are to Amsterdam what chicken fillet rolls are to Ireland. They are a staple on almost all menus (from bars to high-end restaurants), and for good reason. I have been to Amsterdam about four times now and as much as I love to try the modern places to eat, in Amsterdam the tasty hit of bitterballen beats all. They even have little vending machines with piping hot bitterballen in them. Literal dreams stuff. Served with face-twisting mustard straight up. Heaven on a little greasy plate.

Bitterballen with wild garlic pesto and Mimolette cheese

Gráinne O'Keefe's bitterballen with wild garlic pesto and Mimolette cheese

• 300g cooked beef, finely shredded
• 50g butter
• 60g flour
• 350ml beef stock
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 2 eggs
• 100g breadcrumbs
• 150g Mimolette cheese, grated
• Oil for frying

For the wild garlic pesto

• 50g wild garlic leaves
• 30g pine nuts
• 30g grated Parmesan cheese
• 100ml extra virgin olive oil
• Salt and pepper to taste

Method

1. To prepare the bitterballen filling: In a saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Stir in the flour to form a roux. Cook for three minutes until golden brown. Gradually whisk in the beef stock until smooth. Cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens. Add the shredded beef, season with salt and pepper, and cook for another five minutes. Remove from heat and let it cool.
2. Once the beef mixture has cooled, shape it into small balls, about 2cm in diameter.
3. Prepare the breading station: In one bowl, put some plain flour, and in a separate bowl beat the eggs. In another bowl, combine the breadcrumbs and grated Mimolette cheese.
4. Dip each beef ball into the flour, then in the beaten eggs, then coat evenly with the breadcrumb and cheese mixture. Repeat for all bitterballen.
5. For the wild garlic pesto: In a food processor, combine wild garlic leaves, pine nuts, grated Parmesan cheese, and extra virgin olive oil. Blend until smooth. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
6. Heat oil in a deep fryer or large frying pan to 180 degrees. Fry the coated bitterballen in batches until golden brown and crispy, about four minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.
7. Arrange the fried bitterballen on a serving platter. Serve warm with wild garlic pesto and shave some Mimolette on top.

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