This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
When Thai people think of Isaan, the country’s north east, usually the first thing that comes to mind is the food. Isaan cuisine is characterised by its simple, local ingredients and punchy flavours — the classic profile is savoury, spicy and tangy. A key component in the cooking here is pla ra, freshwater fish marinated using salt, toasted rice or rice bran. Tightly packed into a jar and left to ferment away from sunlight for at least six months, it’s brown in colour with an intensely pungent aroma. It’s this that lends a hit of umami richness to many of Isaan’s distinctive dishes.
1. Pla ra som tam
You can’t talk about Isaan without a nod to the region’s most popular dish — papaya salad, or som tam. It’s enjoyed throughout Thailand, but a true Isaan-style version is made with pla ra and local olives (makok). Loei province, renowned for its extra punchy pla ra, is home to the best Isaan-style som tam.
Where to find it: The chefs at Som Tam Muang Loei ferment the fish for their pla ra using a family recipe, and it makes the som tam here extra special. Despite being in Khorat (the common name of Nakhon Ratchasima province), the restaurant name signifies its Loei origins.
2. Gai yang
This dish of marinated, grilled chicken, served with som tam and steamed sticky rice, is the ultimate Isaan feel-good food. Originally a Lao dish, it’s now a Thai favourite, and each household has its own recipe, but all are slowly grilled on low heat over charcoal. The key ingredient, unique to Isaan, is lemongrass, and some recipes also add pandan leaves for a hint of floral sweetness. It’s served with jaew, a savoury, spicy and sour dipping sauce.
Where to find it: The best grilled chicken is usually found at roadside stalls, but Seri Grilled Chicken Khao Suan Kwang restaurant in Khon Kaen produces an ultra-flavoursome gai yang and jaew.
3. Duck laab
The best laab, a salad of finely chopped protein with herbs and other aromatics, treads a fine balance between spicy, salty and sour. It can be made with anything from chicken to pork to fish, but duck is considered a delicacy in Isaan. The classic recipe combines minced duck with shallots, sawtooth coriander and mint, flavouring it with fish sauce, lime juice, chilli powder and ground toasted rice. It’s perfect with sticky rice, fresh cabbage, cucumber and string beans.
Where to find it: Ask an Isaan local where to find the best laab and they’ll likely point you to Udon Thani province. Ban Nuea Laab-Koi makes a great version.
4. Weeping tiger steak
According to legend, this dish — also known as crying tiger or tiger’s tears — takes its name from a tiger that wept because it couldn’t reach the tastiest part of the cow, the brisket, as it was obstructed by the ribcage. The recipe traditionally involves mixing brisket with soy sauce, coriander root, white pepper and oyster sauce before grilling over charcoal. It’s served with a spicy dipping sauce of ground toasted rice, chilli powder, fish sauce and lime juice.
Where to find it: It’s often the case that no frills venues serve the best food, and Mae Suk Isaan Restaurant Lap Koi is a great example, renowned for serving the best weeping tiger steak in the area.
5. Gaeng om gai
The ‘gai’ in this dish’s name refers to chicken, while gaeng om is an Isaan-style curry with no coconut milk and an uncharacteristically simple curry paste consisting of only three ingredients: chillies, lemongrass and shallots. Garnish with lemon basil, dill and a splash of pla ra sauce, and you have the perfect umami finish. It’s a lesser-known Isaan dish but packed full of regional greens such as pak kayang, which has notes of lemon and cumin; pak krad, with its bittersweet flavour and slight tingling sensation; and pak tew, the young leaves of which are smooth and sour.
Where to find it: Jae Daeng Gaeng Om is situated in the owner’s garden, where they craft various styles of Gang Om and bring their homegrown vegetables to the table.
6. Soop naw mai
Bamboo shoots are very easy to find in this region, and they have a long shelf life once they’re steamed, shredded and refrigerated, which is why this bamboo salad is a local favourite. ‘Soop’ in the northeastern dialect means ‘to mix together’ and this dish is typically served alongside som tam, gai yang and sticky rice.
Where to find it: Despite soop naw mai being a household name, it doesn’t often make it onto restaurant menus — but most Isaan establishments will put it together for you on request. Han Laab Ai Tong in Khon Kaen is one of the best in the region for perfecting everything on its menu.
7. Jaew
Thai people can’t get enough of chilli relishes, and aubergine jaew is the top pick for northeasterners. It’s made by roasting long Thai aubergines with garlic and shallots; the soft flesh is then pounded up with a pinch of salt — and the secret ingredient is, of course, pla ra. It’s served as a dip with pork scratchings, boiled egg and boiled vegetables.
Where to find it: Jaew is often bought in jars, and there are plenty to choose from at stores across the region. Ue Kia Hiang is a little shop selling souvenirs — and jars of quality jaew — in Khon Kaen.
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