Located on the ground floor of the historic Raja Bahadur Mansion in Mumbai’s bustling Fort area — just across from the Bombay Stock Exchange — Mool: Kitchen & Bar is a restaurant that exudes warmth and sincerity.
Mool: Kitchen & Bar, the newest culinary sensation in the city, welcomed its first guests last month, living up to its commitment to being “authentic, unpretentious, and heartfelt.” Beyond its impressive menu, what truly sets Mool: apart is its mission to deliver the soulful essence of home-cooked meals directly to your plate, ensuring an experience that resonates with genuine flavours and a comforting touch.
From Ladakh in the north, where the natural produce is scanty and limited to certain months of the year; to the arid deserts of Rajasthan and the salt basins of the Rann of Kutch to the majestic hills of Meghalaya and the forests of Nagaland, India’s regional cuisines are like the ocean – largely explored but deeply felt. One can argue that Indian cuisines are perhaps the most diverse and vast in the entire world. And yet, what we share with the rest of the world is that each dish varies from family to family, home to home. Most of our recipes are passed down through the generations with modifications made as per the individual cooking them and the resources available.
Mool: aims to bring these home-made recipes from different corners of India to the plates of its patrons. The dishes prepared in Mool: reflect home-style cooking techniques and are representations of many lesser-known, yet locally popular home chefs from different parts of India. The traditions and skills of these extraordinary men and women are at the core of every meal, but what truly made me light up is that part of the proceeds from every order is shared with the recipe owners and they are given due credit in the menu.
“This social impact is the philosophy behind the idea of Mool: and how it wishes to give back,” says founder Dipti Shetty, adding: “It is with zeal to bring authentic recipes from all corners of our country that the concept of Mool: was born as an idea. We hope that we are able to share with you on the table, our experiences from this beautiful culinary journey in their most sincere form.”
Sudakshina Mukherjee from West Bengal is one of the chefs who has gracefully shared her recipe. A home cook, she also makes and sells traditional Bengali dishes in her neighbourhood. From Sudakshina, we get Bengal’s famous rich and spicy mutton curry, the Kosha Mangsho, Gurer Payesh (rice pudding flavoured with jaggery) and my personal favourite since childhood, Jhuri Aloo Bhaaja (deep fried potato slivers cooked with curry leaves).
Then, we have Feroza Begum from Kashmir. “God has provided Kashmir with a bounty of fresh fruits and vegetables and we must make the best of the opportunity by cooking delicious recipes,” she says. Feroza Begum loves entertaining guests and is known for serving homemade Kashmiri dishes in her locality. While not commercially popular, these dishes like the Cheukh Vangun (long brinjals simmered in a slightly sour tomato gravy) and Dodh Aal (fried bottle gourd in creamy yoghurt-based gravy), hold great heritage value in Kashmiri homes. Consider tasting these dishes when you visit the restaurant.
If you’ve already been to Mool: and tried their Gehat Ki Dal and have been as amazed as I was, you have Uttarakhand’s Nirmala Devi to thank. Coming from a simple rural household, Nirmala Devi uses only the freshest local produce from the region to create her culinary masterpieces. She has also provided recipes for the Bicchoo Booti Ka Saag (boiled nettle leaves tempered with cumin, turmeric and red chilli tadka) and the Aloo Ke Gutke which is jeera aloo, cooked in a pahadi style.
Nirmala Devi, Sudakshina Mukherjee and Feroza Begum are three home chefs at the heart of Mool.
Address: Mool: Kitchen & Bar, Unit No. 30, Ground Floor, Raja Bahadur Mansion, 28, Mumbai Samachar Marg, Fort, Mumbai – 400 023
Landmark: Opposite Indian Bank
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