There is now a glut of weighty courgettes, buxom tomatoes and peppers, a bountiful moment that will keep giving late into the winter, so long as you get ahead and preserve them in good oil. But, for now, they are all vegetables that flourish from Madrid to Marrakech, and it’s from those regions that I’ve taken inspiration this week. To get the best from them, cook over a fire, fry in plenty of olive oil or roast until charred, sweet and caramelised. All three dishes are best brought to room temperature and eaten in the garden, seasoned with sunshine and a glass of something nice.
Stuffed tomatoes with capers, currants and pine nuts
This was inspired by a trip to Sicily, where stunning local produce is combined with Moorish spices and the opulence of dried fruit and nuts. Serve with some fresh buffalo mozzarella, if you like.
Prep 15 min
Cook 1 hr 30 min
Serves 4
8 large ripe tomatoes
2 tbsp olive oil, plus 80ml extra for the stuffing, and extra for drizzling
1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
1 tsp cinnamon
½ tsp allspice
1 tsp pul biber
200g fresh breadcrumbs, made from day-old stale bread, such as ciabatta
80g currants, soaked in hot water for 30 minutes and drained
100g pine nuts
60g capers, rinsed
1 tbsp dried oregano
1 handful flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
Sea salt and pepper
Basil leaves, to garnish
Heat the oven to 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4. Cut the top off each tomato and keep these lids. Scoop out the flesh with a teaspoon, roughly chop it and set aside.
Put two tablespoons of the olive oil in a frying pan on a medium-low heat, then fry the onion until soft. Add the garlic and, once fragrant, the cinnamon, allspice and pul biber, and fry until fragrant. Add the chopped tomato flesh, cook until jammy, then leave to cool.
In a large bowl, mix the breadcrumbs, currants, pine nuts, capers, oregano, parsley and the fried onion mixture, then season to taste. Pour in 60ml olive oil, mix, then stuff into each tomato cavity, packing it in tightly.
Arrange the tomatoes in an ovenproof dish that holds them snugly, top with the reserved lids, drizzle with more olive oil and bake for 45 minutes to an hour, until tender but still holding their shape.
Serve at room temperature scattered with basil leaves.
Baked courgettes with romesco crust
For the best flavour, roast the peppers on the open flame of a gas stove or directly on a barbecue. Serve as a main with a green salad or as an accompaniment to grilled meat or fish.
Prep 10 min
Rest 20 min
Cook 1 hr 15 min
Serves 4
2 large green courgettes
2 large yellow courgettes
Olive oil, for frying and drizzling
5 large tomatoes
2 red onions, peeled and cut into wedges
A few sprigs each fresh oregano and thyme, leaves picked
For the romesco crust
2 red peppers
40g hazelnuts, toasted
1 garlic clove
1 tsp sweet smoked paprika
100g sourdough bread
2 tsp sherry vinegar
30ml olive oil
A good grating of parmesan
1 handful finely chopped flat-leaf parsley, to garnish
Begin by making the romesco crust. Heat the grill to medium-high and grill the peppers, turning occasionally, until their skin is dark and blistered. Transfer to a bowl, cover with clingfilm, leave to steam for 20 minutes, then peel and deseed. Tear the flesh into strips and pat dry with kitchen paper.
In a food processor, blitz the hazelnuts to a coarse crumble, then tip into a bowl and set aside. Put the pepper strips and garlic in the food processor, add the paprika, bread and vinegar, and pulse to coarse crumbs. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the olive oil in a steady stream, then stir in the hazelnuts.
Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Cut the courgettes diagonally into ½cm-thick slices. Heat a splash of oil in a large frying pan, then fry the courgettes in batches for two minutes on each side, until golden. Thickly slice the tomatoes, then arrange with the onions and courgettes in a 1.2-litre ovenproof dish. Drizzle generously with olive oil, season, scatter over the oregano and thyme, and roast for 20-25 minutes, until the tomatoes are shrivelled and onions are soft and a little caramelised.
Top with the romesco crust and a good grating of parmesan, then bake for a further 10-15 minutes, until the crust is crisp. Scatter over the parsley and serve.
Roast red pepper, watermelon and feta salad
A jar of roast peppers offers endless opportunities. Here, they bring a bittersweet dimension to a watermelon and feta salad.
Prep 15 min
Steep 45 min
Cook 25 min
Serves 4-6
250ml sunflower oil
2 pitta or Lebanese flatbreads, cut into quarters
1 x 290g jar roast red peppers, drained and cut into strips
1 mini watermelon, peeled and cut into bite-sized chunks
4 ripe tomatoes, heritage for preference, cut into chunks
100g green pitted olives
2 tbsp capers, rinsed
1 handful mint, torn
1 handful flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped
200g feta
For the dressing
1 red onion, peeled and very finely sliced
1 tsp sea salt
½ tsp caster sugar
2 tbsp dried oregano
2 tbsp red-wine vinegar
6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
Begin by making the dressing. In a bowl, mix the onion, sea salt, sugar and oregano, and massage it with your fingers. Top with the vinegar and olive oil, and leave to steep for 45 minutes.
Put the sunflower oil in a saucepan on a medium heat and, once hot, add half the bread and fry until golden. Drain on absorbent paper, and repeat with the remaining bread.
In a serving bowl or platter, mix the peppers, watermelon, tomatoes, olives and capers. Break the fried bread into rough pieces and stir that in, too. Add the herbs and dressing, scatter over the feta, toss and serve.
"food recipes" - Google News
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Ravinder Bhogal’s recipes for cooking with summer vegetables - The Guardian
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