Rick Martínez’s Essential Mexican Recipes - The New York Times

datangep.blogspot.com

The “Mi Cocina” author and a second-generation Mexican American shares the regional specialties he loves most.

Rick Martínez, wearing clear round glasses and a light blue shirt with pink flowers, stands at a counter in a beautiful, bright kitchen full of pops of color. He looks so happy as he holds one hand up in the air and another mixes a sauce for fish. In the foreground are the elements to make one of his essential dishes: pescado zarandeado. — “When I would go to Mexico, I used to apologetically tell the locals I was American. But they would say, ‘No, tu corazón es Mexicano.’ Your heart is Mexican.”Ren Fuller for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Laura Kinsey Dolph. Prop Stylist: Tamasin Reid.

When I was a teenager, my grandfather Agustín Flores Castruita would call me every Saturday morning to let me know exactly which church festivals he would be hitting up that day.

These festivals, in East Austin, Texas, where he lived, were like circuit parties for the neighborhood’s older Mexicans and Mexican Americans. There were concerts, dancing, ice-cold beer, tacos and — his favorite — gorditas de chicharrón. I knew exactly where to find him when I’d arrive: next to the mariachis, with a can of Lone Star in one hand and a gordita in the other, belting out “El Rey” by Vicente Fernández. The song would end, and he’d raise his beer and shout with a loving but almost sad yearning, “¡Mi México!”

Agustín was born in Torreón, a city in the northern state of Coahuila. Five years later, in 1910, his father sold the family’s dairy farm and bought a small farm just south of Austin, moving everyone across the border. Even though my grandfather spent only the first five years of his life in Mexico, he held onto his love of the country.

He’d tell of driving his Ford Model A over the dirt roads between Austin and the Mexican border during Prohibition. Sitting back and smiling, he’d recall the dances he went to, the food he ate and the affordable tequila he’d buy openly at the cantinas — unlike the ridiculously expensive moonshine served in secret at the speakeasies in Austin.

He was my only connection to Mexico, my history and my culture. Both of my parents were born in Texas and worked hard to fit in — to do what they thought was expected of them as an American family. But my grandfather planted a seed in me that could be nourished only by frequent trips across the border. They were never enough: I felt like I was caught between two worlds, one wholly white American, where I felt compelled to fit in, and the other Mexican, where, like so many first- and second-generation immigrants, I didn’t understand how or where I fit in.

What I did understand, though, is that I always felt more connected to the people in Mexico than the people in the United States. Mexico was where I wasn’t the only brown person in the room, where I was surrounded by people who looked and thought and talked like me, who loved the same food I did and who didn’t consider me a foreigner.

When I would go to Mexico, I used to apologetically tell the locals I was American. But they would say, “No, tu corazón es Mexicano.” Your heart is Mexican.

Adding chipilín to masa in these empanadas lends a subtle herbaceousness. But if you can’t find it, spinach, chard or kale works well, too.Ren Fuller for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Laura Kinsey Dolph. Prop Stylist: Tamasin Reid.

So, in October 2019, I flew to Mexico City, bought a car and set off on the journey that would change my life. I drove more than 25,000 miles and explored 300 cities and towns across all 32 states in search of my connection to Mexico — to find people that looked like me and my family, and to find food like my mom and grandma made.

It turns out that the food I grew up with, what I thought were canonical Mexican dishes, were simply regional, familial adaptations of food that you can find around the country. Dishes like tamales, pozole and mole have an almost infinite number of variations, with the personality and sazón (style and flair) of the cook taking center stage. If I were to ask 10 people to make the exact same dish, each would be different — and delicious — and appreciated and celebrated for it.

In the United States, cookbooks and recipes written by people of color are often labeled “authentic” as a marketing superlative. When I started researching the cuisine of Mexico, I fully bought into that notion and believed that I would find one true version of each dish. I’d drive into a new town and order the same dish over and over again at different restaurants, taking notes on what they had in common and how they differed. Then I interviewed cooks and asked them why they made these dishes the way they did. The answer was very simple: because that’s the way they liked it.

In Mexico, people cook the food they love to eat without any fear of getting it wrong. And just like cooks in the United States, Mexicans use food to celebrate individuality, creativity and diversity.

For The Times, I chose recipes that I felt were essential to my Mexican cooking journey — dishes from vastly different parts of the country — whose ingredients, methods and techniques have made me a better, more creative and fearless cook.

An achiote-based sauce coats butterflied fish in this recipe for pescado zarandeado.Ren Fuller for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Laura Kinsey Dolph. Prop Stylist: Tamasin Reid.

This list is not meant to be definitive. Representing an entire cuisine in 10 dishes is foolhardy, if not impossible. And while I can provide you with a very good recipe for pescado zarandeado from the coastal state of Nayarit, it cannot compare to the experience of eating red snapper just out of the ocean, marinated and grilled over a fire on the beach.

In selecting these recipes, I wanted to offer the regional specialties that I love most, like the tostadas de mariscos from Ensenada — towers of seafood piled onto freshly fried corn tortillas and topped with spicy salsa, avocado and lime juice — or the sweet-tart mole negro from the Oaxacan highlands, made with native chiles. I want you to revel in variations of dishes you might already be familiar with — like chiles rellenos made not from charred poblanos but from dried ancho chiles — and those you may not be, like sopa Tlaxcalteca, a hearty, comforting soup from the state of Tlaxcala, just east of Mexico City. In it, chicken and seasonal produce are simmered in milk to create a velvety broth topped with crispy tortilla strips, fried chiles de árbol, crema and queso.

These are dishes you’d encounter while exploring the puestos (food stalls), visiting food trucks in the heart of a city or dining at your best friend’s grandmother’s house. There is no pretense. There is no righteousness. There is only good food made by people who want you to love it as much as they do. So if your heart races and your mouth waters for Mexican food, our neighbor to the south is but a few recipes — or a quick and inexpensive — flight away.